Spicy pork, seaweed salad, grilled mackerel, soya bean soup. By the time the waiter had placed the last plate on the long, low dining table, I’d counted well over 30 different dishes. Among the more unusual were acorn jelly, neutari mushrooms, burdock root salad, barley seeds in syrup and crispy silk worm larvae. I was sitting in a small, rural restaurant in South Korea and I’d never had such a spectacular lunch.
In light of such variety and invention, the recent surge of interest in South Korean cuisine is not surprising. Finally emerging from the shadow of its more gastronomically-established neighbours, Japan and China, 2017 saw the Michelin Guide’s first ever coverage of the capital, Seoul, and in one bound the country’s top-end cookery joined the international elite. This year’s accolades have increased to 24 Michelin-starred restaurants [such as Jungsik, pictured below], including four with two stars and a couple with three.
But I wasn’t here for fine dining. For me, this remarkable haul of Michelin stars points to the roots of Korean cooking - the countless other food outlets: street stalls, cafes, beer houses and small-town restaurants which offer excellent food for every budget. But if truth be told, I wasn’t that confident of exploring it unaided. Outside Seoul, language and cultural differences make it tricky enough to get around, let alone unearth some of the more obscure local eateries. Menus are either in Korean or non-existent, and it’s rare that any English is spoken.
So I had booked onto an eight-day “Real Food Adventure” tour of South Korea. Covering a circular route of some 500 miles or so, it combined the cities of Seoul, Jeonju, Gyeongju and Busan and promised to give a comprehensive insight into Korean cooking of all varieties as well as a glimpse into a country which will be thrust into the international limelight as host to the 2018 Winter Olympics next month.
The tour was well-planned on the food front, but any sightseeing was almost entirely left to us. However, in the brief amount of free time available, I was able to glean a little more about the country than just its cooking - and found that each of the four far-flung cities we visited had its own distinctive and fascinating character.
Firstly, the high-rise capital, Seoul, with its 24-hour streetlife, imposingly large palaces and busy shrines. One highlight was the 78-acre palace garden at Changdeokgung, with its lotus pond, pavilions and ancient woodland, the other was the state-of-the-art National Museum, with its treasure-trove of gold jewellery, Buddhist painting and traditional calligraphy. By contrast, Jeonju, capital of the North Jeolla Province, 120 miles south of Seoul, revealed a very different style of city centre, a peaceful layout of over 800 traditional low-rise buildings housing tourist shops, restaurants and small guesthouses.
Located in the heart of South Korea is the bustling metropolis of Seoul.
• Top accommodation choices in Seoul
In the refined city of Gyeongju, which served as the capital for the Silla dynasty from 57 BC, I was afforded an all-too-short hour to marvel at the museum's impressive array of crowns, artifacts, and arms, unearthed from the central tomb complex of the city. This location, a Unesco World Heritage site with a serene park, hails from the same historical era. As I ventured amongst the ancient verdant hillocks that continue to guard these tombs, I encountered peaceful clusters of diverse trees such as ginko, red pine, persimmon, maple, pear, magnolia, maple trees, Chinese quince, and myrtle.
A single night’s stay in chaotic Busan, Korea’s second largest city, which faces Japan across the water from the country’s most southeasterly corner, wasn’t long enough to do the port and its environs justice, but we made time to visit the vast fish markets for an unforgettable glimpse of slippery tentacles, silvery scales, gaping mouths and spiny shells, stretching as far as the eye could see.
Overall, the trip wasn’t exactly luxurious. Accommodation was in a combination of mid-range hotels and traditional hanoks (guesthouses) with bedding spread out on the floor. For those curious about how the other half lives, or for your next visit when you might crave something a bit more opulent, there are certainly 5 star hotels in Seoul on www.seoulhotelspage.com that offer a lavish experience in stark contrast to the rustic charm of hanoks. Travel was by mini-bus, trains and public bus through the peninsular’s mixed interior landscape of idyllic wooded hills, paddy fields and rural villages juxtaposed with the occasional urban high-rise sprawl. But the slight feeling of roughing it, while also being well looked after, made the tour feel satisfyingly closer to the real Korea.
The Changdeokgung Palace
Our guide was Daniel Gray, a food-loving American, who had been adopted from a Korean family aged six. Returning to find his natural parents and to discover more about his roots in 2005, he had become a food blogger, restaurant owner and tour guide. Enthusiastic, knowledgeable and helpful, he proved to be a mine of information.
The group of 12 (mostly Australians plus two Brits, an American and an Egyptian) introduced ourselves over a Korean barbecue at a small city cafe in Seoul, gathered around charcoal-fuelled grills built into circular tables. Dangling tubes like giant, silver slinkies, hung suspended over the grill, piping away the fumes and smoke from the table.
Daniel got stuck in straight away. Picking a succulent piece of beef and one of pork off the grill, he demonstrated how to make “ssam” by wrapping the meat in a single, crispy lettuce leaf with a smear of spicy ssamjang paste, a strip of cucumber and optional garlic clove, eaten as finger food and washed down with a shot of “soju” (the Korean answer to vodka, traditionally made from rice, wheat or barley).
Explore the diverse flavors of South Korea beyond the well-known kimchi. One popular dish is the "ssam" meal, where slices of grilled meat are wrapped in lettuce and topped with spicy "ssamjang" paste, creating a delightful combination of textures and flavors.
As you venture further into the culinary scene, don't miss out on indulging in freshly-fried "kkwabaegi," a twisted doughnut infused with a delightful cinnamon flavor. These treats are often found in the bustling evening markets of Seoul, offering a sweet and satisfying snack.
For those seeking a more hearty dish, indulge in the city's specialty, "chi-maek," which is Korean fried chicken served with a desirable level of spiciness. Pair it with a cold, local beer to truly immerse yourself in the experience.
It's worth noting that Korean cuisine revolves around staple ingredients like rice ("bap"), fermented vegetables, typically cabbage ("kimchi"), and a flavorful stock-based soup known as "guk." These items are commonly found in every meal, including breakfast, accompanied by an assortment of tapas-style side dishes called "banchan." The array of flavors and textures will leave you craving more.
Experience the joy of dining Korean style and immerse yourself in the culture with some dos and don'ts to enhance your culinary adventure.
Indulge in the flavors and philosophy of South Korea with the iconic rice-based dish known as "bipimbap," a delectable blend of colors and tastes. Immerse yourself in a culinary journey through Jeonju, the renowned birthplace of this beloved dish.
Picture a harmonious bowl of rice adorned with an array of vibrant vegetables like cucumber, mushrooms, courgette, and spinach, crowned with a perfectly cooked egg. As you savor this masterpiece, your taste buds will be delighted by a symphony of accompanying dishes. Experience the cool, refreshing texture of mung bean jelly infused with tumeric, the tangy bite of shredded radish kimchi, and the sweetness of starch syrup-drenched sweet potato, made from simmering pumpkin. Delve into the world of fermented fish, known as "jeotgal," and savor the mild spice of turnip combined with chili. Don't forget to relish a refreshing seaweed salad with cucumber and tantalizing seasoned watercress. All of this culinary wonder unfolds amidst the satisfying sips of "moju," a herbal rice beer infused with the warm, soothing essence of cinnamon.
Discover the true essence of South Korean cuisine through the artistry and flavors of bipimbap. From the intricate presentation to the thoughtful combination of ingredients, each bite takes you on a journey through the rich culinary heritage of the Winter Olympics host nation.
Exploring South Korea beyond the traditional kimchi dishes has been an enlightening experience. During my journey, I discovered the Unesco-designated Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju, a place of tranquility and beauty.
While the lunches I had were visually stunning, it was the breakfast adventures that truly took me off the beaten path. I found myself in hidden canteens tucked away in market back-alleys, their unassuming exteriors belying the spotless and inviting interiors. Sharing a meal with wiry market traders and all-night local carousers, I savored the flavors of "haejang-guk" – a nourishing hangover soup with a spicy kick that required a certain level of audacity and insider knowledge to order. Another memorable culinary experience was indulging in fried silk worm larvae at a humble, family-run restaurant along a remote roadside. These unique dishes turned out to be surprisingly delicious, and it was only with the guidance of my knowledgeable local companion, Daniel, that I had the opportunity to taste them.
If you're planning to visit South Korea, make sure you decode the Korean food menu to fully appreciate the culinary wonders this vibrant nation has to offer.
In the gaps between eating, there was time for hands-on cookery sessions which included a demonstration of making “gochujang”, Korea’s popular red chilli paste, used to add flavour to rice, stews and soup. Traditionally made by combining soya bean powder, salt, black bean paste, rice powder and syrup extracted from boiled barley husk, it became far fierier with the relatively more recent addition of red chilli bought to Korea from the Americas by Portuguese traders in the sixteenth-century.
A shady courtyard in the peaceful heart of Jeonju, was the location for a kimchi-making lesson. An elegant Korean lady demonstrated the transformation of chopped onion, leek, shrimp sauce, garlic, chilli powder, red pepper and ginger into thick, gooey paste through determined pounding and stirring in a vast, stone mortar, centuries-old and as almost as large as the chef. Once mixed, she showed the group how to smear the pungent red concoction thickly onto the leaves of a salted cabbage head, back and front, to create the nation’s ubiquitous dish.
Exploring the vibrant food scene in South Korea goes beyond the well-known kimchi. While the Winter Olympics host nation is home to a variety of culinary delights, the Jagalchi fish market in Busan is a must-visit for seafood enthusiasts. With its bustling atmosphere and array of fresh catch, it offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the local seafood culture.
For those seeking a more immersive experience, the 24-hour stay at the Bulguksa Monastery near Gyeongju provides a glimpse into the spiritual and meditative side of Korean culture. Participants are provided with traditional monastic clothing and housed in simple, unfurnished rooms. The itinerary includes yoga and meditation sessions, a martial arts demonstration, and an early morning wake-up call for Buddhist chanting and prayer.
During this transformative experience, guests partake in simple vegan meals, segregated by gender and consumed in silence. The meals, consisting of fresh ingredients and served with plain water, offer a moment of reflection and tranquility amidst the busy schedule.
Discovering South Korea's culinary diversity and cultural traditions is a rewarding journey that goes beyond the boundaries of taste. From the lively fish market in Busan to the serene monastic retreat, each experience presents an opportunity to embrace the richness of this Winter Olympics host nation.
As we bid farewell, we had the privilege of meeting the esteemed Grand Master of the monastery. In a tranquil setting, we sat comfortably, enjoying a fragrant and delicate herbal tea that cleansed our senses. The wise elderly monk shared his parting words, emphasizing the importance of detaching oneself from greed. However, consumed by hunger and anticipation, his advice was momentarily forgotten. With a resolute nod, we finished our tea and embarked on an unforgettable journey to Busan, the vibrant seafood capital of South Korea. Our itinerary included a tantalizing beer-tasting tour and a delicious clam bake, indulging our cravings and immersing ourselves in the local culinary delights.
Discovering the diverse flavors of South Korea is an integral part of experiencing the Winter Olympics host nation. Despite the monk's advice, our rumbling stomachs guided us towards the gastronomic pleasures that awaited us. In Busan, renowned for its fresh seafood, we were intrigued by the assortment of delectable dishes, from succulent grilled clams to mouthwatering seafood stews. Our culinary exploration showcased the vibrant food scene that thrives within this enchanting city.